Pentax K2000

Handling (7.00)

The Pentax K2000 is a small but substantial handful. At 18.5 oz. (524g) without a lens, it doesn’t have the featherweight feel of the Canon Rebel XS or XSi, which is fine with us: a little extra heft helps the camera set well in your hand, yet it’s still nearly half a pound lighter than the Canon 50D. The body measures 4.8 × 2.7 × 3.6 inches (122 × 67 × 91mm).

As for maneuverability, the camera would be a more comfortable fit for someone with smaller mitts than this reviewer. The grip is small, not very deep and relatively narrow. This leaves plenty of room for your fingers between the grip and the lens, but it can also create an uncomfortable gap between your palm and the camera body while shooting, which makes balance more difficult. It isn’t a dealbreaker, but it’s not ideal either.

On the plus side, the shutter is nicely positioned on an angled platform up front,where it falls naturally under your index finger. The smooth plastic thumb rest on the back could use some texture, but it’s substantial enough and in the right spot to counterbalance the camera weight effectively.

Working with the controls is comfortable for the most part, though there is some room for improvement. It’s a little too easy to accidentally turn the mode dial; we found ourselves shooting in Sensitivity Value mode instead of Shutter-Priority mode more than once. The buttons could also use a bit more click and travel when depressed, and we would have given the Menu button the top position in the four-button Playback/Info/Menu/Erase line-up, to make it accessible more quickly while shooting. The control dial is in a nice spot, next to your thumb but far enough away to avoid accidental adjustments.

Overall, we found shooting with the K2000 comfortable, even with big hands, and would particularly recommend it to those with daintier digits.

Buttons & Dials (8.25)

The Pentax K2000 doesn’t offer up a huge array of buttons, relying instead on the LCD menu system for fast access to many shooting settings. We found the layout generally practical, though the buttons aren’t raised very far from the camera body, which was an issue when trying to navigate the camera back by feel alone.

Display(s) (4.40)

The LCD is a bit scrawny by current standards, measuring 2.7 inches with 230,000-dot resolution, though this is not the worst area for cost-cutting. At least the screen is bright and displays colors accurately. The viewing angle is fairly limited, but with no Live View mode, you’re not going to be looking at the LCD from odd angles while shooting anyway.

Both the brightness and the color reproduction of the LCD can be adjusted through the menu system. There are 15 possible brightness levels, with a black-to-white gradient displayed on the setting screen so you can judge the effect of your adjustment. As for tuning the color, you can tweak the screen along the green-magenta and/or blue-amber axes, with 15 available settings on each.

When shooting, the LCD displays a full-screen settings summary, as shown below. It’s a decent screen layout, though we would have preferred to see the individual settings appear larger, even if that meant shrinking the top section (with shooting mode, shutter speed, aperture, remaining exposures and battery life). If you prefer not to have this screen displayed, it can be toggled off by pressing the INFO button (the LCD can be annoyingly bright when you hold the camera up to your eye, and there’s no automatic sensor to turn it off as you’ll find on some SLRs). The camera is kind of stubborn about this display, though: every time you depress and release the shutter button (even if it’s only to focus, without taking a shot), the screen will turn on again.

A more useful button-press is hitting the OK button, which turns the status screen into an interactive control panel. Move the cursor to highlight a setting in this mode and you can scroll through your options by turning the control dial. Or, if you prefer, press OK again and you’re taken to a menu screen listing the available settings for the options at hand.

Secondary Display

As with most inexpensive SLRs, there’s no monochrome LCD on the camera top to provide shooting information when viewed from above.

Viewfinder (6.75)

The viewfinder encompasses approximately 96% field of view, with 0.85 magnification, a reasonable spec for an entry-level SLR. There’s a rather prominent diopter adjustment tab inset into a slot on top of the viewfinder (with a 2.5 to +1.5m-1 range). It takes fingernails and patience to adjust accurately (or, if necessary, you can remove the eyecup to get more purchase on the control), yet we managed to change the setting accidentally more than once when the camera brushed against our clothes - all in all, not the perfect control. One missing element is a cover to close the viewfinder when shooting on a tripod; leaving it open can let light leak in from behind and throw the meter reading off.

Image Stabilization (4.64)

The Pentax K2000, like Olympus and Sony SLRs, has image stabilization built in to the body of the camera. This contrasts with the approach taken by Nikon and Canon, who build image stabilization into individual lenses, which are more expensive than similar lenses without stabilization. The benefit of the Pentax approach is that any lens you mount on the camera can take advantage of image stabilization… when there is an advantage. In our lab testing, we discovered that the Pentax system offers modest improvement where it counts the most, when shooting at shutter speeds of 1/30 second or lower. At higher shutter speeds, though, the results are hit-and-miss. In many instances, engaging the image stabilization system produced blurrier photos than turning it off.

Our image stabilization testing is conducted using a custom-made rig that precisely shakes the camera in a pre-determined pattern, under computer control. With the test subject mounted in the device, we shoot at two different levels of shake, taking multiple images at all shutter speeds between 1/500 and 1/8 second. Horizontal and vertical shake are tested separately. The resulting photos are processed using Imatest to determine image sharpness, and these results statistically analyzed to determine the effectiveness of the image stabilization system. More on how we test image stabilization.

When subjected to a modest level of shake — roughly what we’d expect from an individual when holding the camera steady with two hands — we found that horizontal shake improvement was negligible at shutter speeds below 1/30 second. In the vertical direction, image stabilization offered an improvement at the fastest 1/500 second speed tested, but caused a loss of sharpness for the remaining range until we reach 1/15 second, where some advantage kicks in.

The second phase of our test increases the level of shake until it represents what you’d experience when trying to grab a shot one-handed, or when walking. Here we see a similar pattern to our low-shake test. At the highest shutter speed the sharpness is better with image stabilization turned on, but from that point on it’s causing a dip in image quality until we get to the 1/30 second level.

Bottom line, the Pentax K2000 image stabilization system is consistently inconsistent: that is, it sometimes improves sharpness, sometimes detracts from it, but in roughly the same pattern whether you are fairly steady or moving around quite a bit, and on both the horizontal and vertical axes. Our recommendation: turn the system on if you’re shooting indoors without flash or at night, but leave it off otherwise.

Image Stabilization Comparison Table			Expand
	Low Shake IS Off	Low Shake IS On	High Shake IS Off	High Shake IS On
1/500
1/250
1/125
1/60
1/30
1/15
1/8